Marinero

Marinero

Marinero

Inspired by the contrast of the sea and plastic pollution. Marinero is the first project of Studio Adaptive Skins. The focus of Marinero is to create an architectural blueprint that transforms organically over the course of time due to different weather conditions. The blueprint is one woven square that forms the base of diverse variations. All produced Marinero fabrics are used (no waste). Because the finishing is already incorporated within the woven pattern, the materials take its shape by the various conditions, rather than using traditional cutting and tailoring techniques. The materials used to create yarns for the woven square are divided into several categories. The main categories are: 1 Adaptive Archi-Filament A+B (designed yarn by Jef Montes & produced in collaboration with partners: Aitex Alcoy and Wood K Plus in Linz), 2. Rpet (recycled plastic waste from the sea) 3. PLA (Bioplastic); 4. Seacell silk yarns that are dyed with algae pigment. The vision is to design a new kind of production system resulting into adaptive garments that grow with us individually. The woven fabrics have a warp of monofilament and a weft of integrated variable sustainable threads. The combination of these threads (horizontal versus vertical) cause friction and result into dynamic shapes during different meteorological conditions such as: rain, heavy wind or drought. The design follows the material. All woven and knitted materials were produced at TextielLab Tilburg. The tailored by weather installations are developed with local talented artists from Arnhem. During the final stage of the project all 66 textile designs were placed in open air installations. The Marinero garments have been installed on the rooftop of a chemistry laboratory. This experiment lasted 6 months total. All data collected results, in terms of best design balance filament versus technique, are published open source online.

- Jef Montes {-} ”It's about how these shapes have come to realization, garments that are shaped by meteorological conditions. When you buy a dress you normally look at if it fits you well and if you like the aesthetic. The intention of Marinero is to go from 2D to 3D, to reach shape within the architecture of a fabric. Traditionally a fashion designer buys fabrics and cuts the material until it is molded into a dress. In this case the focus specifically lies on creating conceptual fabrics and yarns. The molding process is placed into a literal natural context. This is an alternative production method that offers sustainable solutions. No waste materials are cut during the tailoring process, the Archi-Filaments do most of the shaping development. It's all about design follows material and the benefit of the experiment, offering unexpected beautiful shapes. My vision is that adaptive yarns will play an important role in the future, in order to create intricate fashionable shapes.''

Inspired by the contrast of the sea and plastic pollution. Marinero is the first project of Studio Adaptive Skins. The focus of Marinero is to create an architectural blueprint that transforms organically over the course of time due to different weather conditions. The blueprint is one woven square that forms the base of diverse variations. All produced Marinero fabrics are used (no waste). Because the finishing is already incorporated within the woven pattern, the materials take its shape by the various conditions, rather than using traditional cutting and tailoring techniques. The materials used to create yarns for the woven square are divided into several categories. The main categories are: 1 Adaptive Archi-Filament A+B (designed yarn by Jef Montes & produced in collaboration with partners: Aitex Alcoy and Wood K Plus in Linz), 2. Rpet (recycled plastic waste from the sea) 3. PLA (Bioplastic); 4. Seacell silk yarns that are dyed with algae pigment. The vision is to design a new kind of production system resulting into adaptive garments that grow with us individually. The woven fabrics have a warp of monofilament and a weft of integrated variable sustainable threads. The combination of these threads (horizontal versus vertical) cause friction and result into dynamic shapes during different meteorological conditions such as: rain, heavy wind or drought. The design follows the material. All woven and knitted materials were produced at TextielLab Tilburg. The tailored by weather installations are developed with local talented artists from Arnhem. During the final stage of the project all 66 textile designs were placed in open air installations. The Marinero garments have been installed on the rooftop of a chemistry laboratory. This experiment lasted 6 months total. All data collected results, in terms of best design balance filament versus technique, are published open source online.

- Jef Montes {-} ”It's about how these shapes have come to realization, garments that are shaped by meteorological conditions. When you buy a dress you normally look at if it fits you well and if you like the aesthetic. The intention of Marinero is to go from 2D to 3D, to reach shape within the architecture of a fabric. Traditionally a fashion designer buys fabrics and cuts the material until it is molded into a dress. In this case the focus specifically lies on creating conceptual fabrics and yarns. The molding process is placed into a literal natural context. This is an alternative production method that offers sustainable solutions. No waste materials are cut during the tailoring process, the Archi-Filaments do most of the shaping development. It's all about design follows material and the benefit of the experiment, offering unexpected beautiful shapes. My vision is that adaptive yarns will play an important role in the future, in order to create intricate fashionable shapes.''

In 2019 Studio Adaptive Skins joined the Re-FREAM network. An international horizon 2020 project that aims to rethink the production process of fashion. The goal is to create a new fashion aesthetic, that is shaped within the natural frames of the technology. ''tailored by weather'' is the main concept of the collection. The idea was to create adaptive yarns that have unique mechanical components, allowing the material to create complex shapes within a textile. This means that 2D produced textiles deform into complex 3D shapes by the use of smart filaments, based on meteorological conditions. The main European co-creation hubs are: Aitex material technology institute in Alcoy/Valencia and Wood K Plus research institute, at the Johannes Kepler Institute in Linz. We have been working on recycling plastic from the sea (rPET, and also PLA bioplastics) to create the Adaptive Archi-Filament. The technology that we have been working on are: melt coating and dip coating production processes. To create the Archi-Filament we needed to adapt existing filament production machines. Our project partners from Empa, the federal material science laboratories in St.Gallen contributed in lab testing and sharing valuable yarn improvement information. This helped the filament production technicians to create the final high performing filament prototypes.

In 2019 Studio Adaptive Skins joined the Re-FREAM network. An international horizon 2020 project that aims to rethink the production process of fashion. The goal is to create a new fashion aesthetic, that is shaped within the natural frames of the technology. ''tailored by weather'' is the main concept of the collection. The idea was to create adaptive yarns that have unique mechanical components, allowing the material to create complex shapes within a textile. This means that 2D produced textiles deform into complex 3D shapes by the use of smart filaments, based on meteorological conditions. The main European co-creation hubs are: Aitex material technology institute in Alcoy/Valencia and Wood K Plus research institute, at the Johannes Kepler Institute in Linz. We have been working on recycling plastic from the sea (rPET, and also PLA bioplastics) to create the Adaptive Archi-Filament. The technology that we have been working on are: melt coating and dip coating production processes. To create the Archi-Filament we needed to adapt existing filament production machines. Our project partners from Empa, the federal material science laboratories in St.Gallen contributed in lab testing and sharing valuable yarn improvement information. This helped the filament production technicians to create the final high performing filament prototypes.

https://re-fream.eu/marinero-9/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QppLICtcXuc

https://studioadaptiveskins.com/